Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Irish connections & la Plaza (square)





Who, among Latin American aficionadas, hasn't heard of Bernardo O'Higgins, first president of Chile who helped gain independence for Chile from Spain in 1818. He can still be seen on some of the cheaper banknotes & of course his name is on the usual plethora of buildings, schools, avenues etc. His father Ambrosio O'Higgins, born in Co. Sligo, (West of Ireland) was the Spanish Governor of Chile & later Viceroy of Peru.

Well I just discovered from a new central government display in the square that Mexico also has an Irish connection but on the Spanish side in the war of independence. General Juan de O'Donoju (O'Donoghue) was the last Governor of New Spain (Mexico) when Mexico gained independence 200 years ago. He signed over Mexico to the Mexicans under the Treaty of Cordoba. The main square here in Puerta Vallarta, and probably in every main centre in Mexico this year, has a 'rogues gallery' of 'who was who' to celebrate two events in Mexico this year.
1. The bicentennial of independence 1810
2. The Centennial of the revolution 1910
The information is nicely presented on large free standing placards in vivid colour outside a civic building in the square for the public to gawk at.
.....so how come these Irish folk were meddling in wars in Latin America apart from having a good punch up. It's no surprise that fellow Catholic countries like Ireland & Spain had a lot of interchange from time to time. One key event in Ireland was the Flight of Irish Earls away from Ulster back in 1607 under pressure from the English. While O'Higgins appears to be of a more recent vintage there's every likelihood O'Donoghue is descended from Irish aristocrats who fled to Spain. Well that's my story for what it's worth.
The square is still central to many cultural activities in Puerta Vallarta. The youthful Xjutla (Shoot-la) folkloric dancing team train there regularly. On Sunday nights there is a band or recorded music playing from the rotunda with people dancing to Mexican ballads. Right opposite the square by the seafront there is a small open air ampitheatre which has regular events. Recently there was ballet to open independence celebrations but most evenings there's usually contemporary music or clowns.
If all this wasn't enough entertainment each night a replica Spanish galleon with lights ablaze and party goers on board lets off fireworks as it approaches the malecon seafront in a mock battle. It usually gets going by dusk just after a huge golden orange sun finally dips under the horizon out in Banderas bay to the west.
Lastly there's the refuge of Starbucks at siesta time on a hot afternoon, which huddles in a shady corner of the square. Air con & comfy armchairs along with lightly tinted windows creates a pleasant ambiance over cafe del dia & many a tale of adventure.

No comments: